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Here's a li'l Friday personal PSA: Apparently for the last like, twenty years, I've been sizing my climbing shoes too tight! πŸ™„ I always thought "the tighter the shoe, the more precise the footwork." They were fitted to the point of barely being able to walk ten steps, and falling hurt my toes like crazy. My downturned shoes were so tight I couldn't climb slab, because there was literally no room for the shoe to flatten out. I wasn't able to use my feet to their full potential hardly at all. I went from a 7 to a 7.5 and gradually up to an 8. β€’ Now not only am I able to wear my shoes for longer periods of time (more than one attempt at a time), I can stand on slab, and more importantly, have room to curl my toes inside my shoes like eagle talons, gripping holds like I never have before. πŸ¦… β€’ My go-to right now are the Shakras from @evolv_worldwide. New fave. I've worn them for everything lately, from sending a squeezy V10 granite roof, 5.13 limestone sport, sandstone bouldering mileage day, and in finals at the Portland Boulder Rally. There's a fine line between too big and too small, and it's all personal preference. But I think climbing in shoes that are outrageously too tight is a thing of the past for me! K, carry on. Happy sending. 🀘
πŸ™ #Repost @sashaturrentine ・・・ Last Wednesday, October 11th, Quinn Brett (the MOST psyched human pictured on the left here) survived a fall on El Cap that, by the speculation of veterans of the sport, would be unsurvivable. . Quinn is in surgery today. Thankfully she has no brain damage, but she is facing a severe spinal injury, and needs our help. While her health insurance will cover most immediate costs, this is going to be a long and expensive road to recovery. Please consider donating (LINK IN PROFILE) and please share this post to reach the widest audience, whether you are lucky enough to know Quinn or not. . Quinn was climbing the Nose in a push with partner and fellow Big Wall Badass Josie McKeeβ€”just two days after these three women pictured became the first all-female team to do the Triple Direct in a day. . She took about a 100 foot fall off the top of the Boot Flake, striking the two-foot wide Texas Flake before landing in some boulders below. Quinn was lucky to be with Josie, a veteran big-waller and rescue professional who knew exactly what to do. YOSAR was able to get her off of the Nose via helicopter within three hours of the accident. . Heal baby, heal! We are here for you. . #bigwallbadassbitches #quinnbrett #climbing
Here are the photos from my previous post that didn't show up. Here's to the memories. Cheers to you, Inge. πŸ’™ I can't believe you're gone.
Oh, Inge. You fucking badass. You were too rad for this world. You and Hayden both were. The first time we met I watched you absolutely HIKE some 5.14 on the Rodeo Wave at Wild Iris. You came down and immediately jumped on some 13c or d next to it and hiked that, too. Last summer's deep water solo event at The New was so fun. Until you, me and @tylerwillcutt watched "Deliverance" and I was too afraid to go outside at night for the rest of the trip... God you were so kind, and sarcastic, and funny, and warm. Your voice was so open and friendly. When we were climbing up at the Iris this summer you said there are things that matter in life much more than climbing. You said you'd never trade a couple of beers and a night of memories with friends for sending your project the next day. That those moments are what matter in life. You and Hayden lived life the same way; full of kindness, spirit, passion, and a sense of humor. It literally feels like we just climbed together last week. Me dangling on my project that you'd sent years ago, trying to pull me back into the wall after whipping. This doesn't feel real. All I can say right now is thanks for all the belays and the laughs. Here's to all the moments that are more important than sending. The world is darker without you both. I'll miss you, friend.
Repping my city all weekend πŸ’ͺ🀘 #VegasStrong shirts now available from @vegas_exp. *LINK IN BIO.* (https://vegasexp.com/) $12. 100% of proceeds will be donated to victims of Las Vegas Shooting. I'm also donating winnings from this weekend as well. To those of you who offered to match $, I'll let you know asap where to send and how much. πŸ™ You guys have all been amazing. Thanks to @princess_slaya for designing and @vegas_exp for having these made. πŸ’™
I had a wonderful time in Portland this past weekend. The Portland Boulder Rally has always been one of my favorite events; the community is so welcoming, the crowd enthusiastic, and the setting superb. Plus, I get to climb with and see some good friends. I felt #VegasStrong all weekend, qualifying in second place going into finals, and coming out with a 4th place finish. It was so rad climbing with @jwebxl in finals and topping out the last problem at the same time! I got to meet and talk to some incredibly inspiring people, and felt a lot of love from everyone there. Thank you to the Surmas for the hospitality, and all of the route setters, volunteers, and employees of @thecircuitgym for a great weekend, and congrats to everyone who competed. Positive vibes were really flowing. πŸ’™πŸ™πŸ€˜ Photo Credits: 1: @richcrowder 2: @brennannnnn 3: @richcrowder 4: @richcrowder 5: @mandellexperiences 6: @quinn.climber 7: @brennannnnn 8: @quinn.climber 9: @richcrowder

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