ALEX JOHNSON

Alex "AJ" Johnson has been climbing professionally for almost two decades.

She has been a member of the US Team for eighteen years, winning her first US Open National Championship at age thirteen (2003), and becoming Open Pan American Champion at age fourteen (2004).

In 2008 AJ made history by becoming the first American to win a Bouldering World Cup on US soil.

In 2010 she did it again, winning gold in Switzerland, becoming the first American to win two Bouldering World Cup gold medals.

Alex briefly retired from competing in 2016 and shifted her focus toward outdoor climbing projects, building an impressive tick-list filled with dozens of iconic first female ascents, hard sends up to V14 with her recent ascent of The Swarm, and has established several first ascents around the Southwest.

Three years later, she came out of retirement to win a silver medal at the 2019 US Nationals, earning her spot back on the US Team for 2019 and 2020 to pursue an Olympic qualification spot at Sport Climbing’s 2020ne debut, but fell just short of qualifying.

In 2018, AJ came out publicly as LGBTQ+ and proudly advocates for equality in sports, the outdoors, and across the country.

She continues to remain at the top of competitive climbing in the US recently earning a 2021 North American Cup silver medal, and a 2022 North American Cup bronze medal.

On the outdoor side, AJ continues to be one of the best female climbers in the world. She is stronger than ever, and having her best year to-date having recently put down five V12 (8A+) boulders and three V13 (8B.)

I’ve watched Alex grow from a young competition climber to one of the leaders in our community. Because she is always mindful of conducting herself in a professional manner, I never worry about her future within this industry—there’s always going to be a spot for AJ.
— Kynan Waggoner, former CEO, USA Climbing